The Hangzhou Grand Theater (QU WEI)

Summer in Hangzhou, the capital of east China's Zhejiang Province, is exceptionally hot and humid, owing to its geographical location and many crisscrossing lakes and rivers. The city feels even hotter this year due to the comprehensive preparation for the upcoming Group of 20 (G20) Summit to be held in early September. Roads are being rebuilt, causing dust to swirl through some communities. Public facilities and tourist sights are being renovated and repainted, while security has inevitably been tightened.

Following the 2015 G20 Summit in Antalya, a Turkish city on the Mediterranean coast, China was chosen to host this year's summit in accordance with the organization's rotation system. China has experience in organizing large-scale international events, including two APEC economic leaders' meetings, the Olympic Games in 2008 and the World Expo in 2010. Though, why was Hangzhou chosen instead of more cosmopolitan cities such as Beijing or Shanghai? Asking a random selection of locals, one may find that some suggest that it was selected due to the city's strong economic performance, good infrastructure or abundant cultural resources. But a clear consensus emerges pointing to the city's natural beauty is its ultimate charm.

 

The China National Tea Museum (QU WEI)

Idyllic view

Traveling around different cities and the countryside in China, you may find that Hangzhou was made to meet photographers, professional or amateur, who are often busy snapping up almost everything they encounter. A city of hills and lakes, the unique topography endows Hangzhou with a picturesque landscape. The center of this beauty is Xihu, the West Lake. Despite its name, it's located in the middle of the city, with the entire scenic area covering 49 square km. Famous historical sites and scenic spots, such as pagodas, temples and botanic gardens surround the lake. Ever since the local government decided to abolish entrance tickets to the West Lake in 2002, the local service sector has been booming. A cluster of tea houses, cafés and restaurants on the lake's shore provide spectacular views as well as food and drink. Many of these elegant buildings are enjoyed by locals during misty rain showers and sunset glows.

Aside from the lake, the Grand Canal is also classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, bearing both natural and historic significance. Built 2,400 years ago to connect Beijing and Hangzhou for water transportation, the 1,974-km Grand Canal is a miracle of ancient engineering. It still functions as a water traffic channel, and a boat tour on the river leaves one exposed to heavy barges loaded with construction materials and agricultural products. At nightfall, the mixture of traffic on the neon-illuminated river banks and the horn-trumpeting barges on the river reminds people of scenarios centuries ago when Hangzhou was just becoming a prosperous business hub in south China.

Apart from various tourist options, there are ideal sites for a short escape from the hustle and bustle of larger cities. Many wetlands lie near the city or in adjacent areas. The Xixi National Wetland Park is the largest and is famed for its marvelous scenery, changing from season to season. There are also a variety of resorts built in the city.

Lovers of green tea will find Hangzhou particularly rewarding. West Lake Longjing is the No.1 brand of green tea in China, well known for its delicate fragrance and crystal green color. Thanks to its natural climate, Hangzhou boasts a number of tea-planting areas, the most famous of which used to send tea directly to the royal families of ancient China. These places are now tourist spots, where visitors may taste and purchase tea and even pick leaves during the harvest season. Since West Lake Longjing is grown in a limited quantity every year and the demand is huge, prices are high.

 

A driver has an electric car charged in Hangzhou (XINHUA)

Cultural heritage

Hangzhou is a suitable place to learn more about Chinese history. The city was built over 2,200 years ago and was one of the seven ancient capitals of China, leaving behind a vast range of cultural heritage, both tangible and intangible. Over 100 museums are spread across the city, including the large Zhejiang Provincial Museum and Hangzhou Museum. There are also numerous themed museums in small neighborhoods, discreetly tucked away from regular tourists. These gems can be unearthed by the more earnest travelers.

Since Hangzhou is known as the land of tea and silk, the tea and silk museums are big draws. Equally famous worldwide is the Hangzhou brocade of richly decorative fabrics made from colored silks. The museum of the Hangzhou brocade, named after Du Jinsheng, the brocade entrepreneur, provides different samples as well as history and art. The secrets of the Chinese technique eventually spread west via the ancient Silk Road. Even today, brocade is used as a state gift. It was given to former U.S. presidents Bill Clinton and George W. Bush by their Chinese counterparts.

Visiting the porcelain museum is also a must in Hangzhou. As the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279), the city witnessed not only the political gloom of the defeated court and emperors, who had established the capital in Hangzhou after withdrawing from north China, but also the extravagant lifestyle of royal and noble families. Consequently, elegant porcelain wares were in great demand. The history of ceramic production can be found in the Southern Song Royal Kiln Museum.

These museums demonstrate Hangzhou's many special contributions to China's social development. The China Finance and Taxation Museum was built on a hill overlooking the West Lake and may be the only museum of its kind dedicated to the long history of China's financial system. War bonds and debt certificates from the early 19th century are well preserved, reminding people of the economic deprivation many faced and how governments were humiliated by an empty treasury routinely laden with foreign and domestic debt.

There are also museums dedicated to Hangzhou's history as a manufacturing base of tools and weapons. The China Knife, Scissors and Sword Museum underlines this history. In ancient times, locally made swords were the favorites of generals. Nowadays, the scissor brand Zhangxiaoquan is still chosen as a gift or souvenir by Chinese tourists. There is even a museum of Hangzhou cuisine, reflecting its status as one of the eight cooking systems within traditional Chinese gastronomy. The typical Hangzhou food exhibited in the museum resembles actual food so well, visitors are left in want of a good restaurant.

 

Qingzhiwu, a street full of cafés and restaurants (QU WEI)

Comfort and convenience

China is a large country that still has a prominent level of economic disparity between its more developed east and less developed west. Income diversity in different regions remains stark. Hangzhou and its province of Zhejiang have traditionally been affluent, with statistics showing per-capita GDP of 112,268 yuan or $18,025 in Hangzhou in 2015, much higher than the national average of 49,351 yuan or $7,924. The prosperous economy has given many locals a comfortable life. Statistics show the service sector contributed 74.6 percent of Hangzhou's GDP growth in 2015.

Hangzhou is a convenient travel destination for domestic and foreign visitors. There are a multitude of international hotels and cozy boutique inns, with prices that cater to budget and luxury travelers, and everyone in between.

The chance to sample local delicacies also helps draw the crowds. While some luxurious restaurants provide formal dining and banquet feasts, some small streets flanked by eateries are ideal places for foodies. The wide range of food choices on offer and reasonable prices appeal to both locals and visitors.

Hangzhou is also a transport hub in China. The nearby Xiaoshan International Airport has direct flights to several foreign cities including Amsterdam, Doha, and Seoul as well as many domestic flights to cities such as Beijing. Hangzhou's two train stations also link the city to every region in China.

Within the city itself, one can take the metro, taxi or bus at reasonable prices. Many places also offer bicycle rental free for one hour and at a minimal cost thereafter.

 

The Leifeng Pagoda in the West Lake scenic area (QU WEI)

Open and innovative

People in Hangzhou are proud of the spirit the city is creating. The Museum of the West Lake International Expo, about the event held from June to October 1929 that attracted over 20 million visitors from home and abroad, showcases the fledgling industry of the time and the international attention it garnered.

Hangzhou has become almost synonymous with mega-companies, such as e-commerce giant Alibaba and Geely Auto, a leading Chinese carmaker that owns Volvo. Thousands of smaller, highly innovative enterprises are also headquartered in the city.

Recently, Hangzhou has developed into a regular venue for national and international conferences, exhibitions and fairs. Locals tend to know well the city's past and present. They often speak of the Italian businessman and traveler, Marco Polo, who visited China in the 13th century and spent many years here. Upon returning home he wrote, "It is without doubt that the finest and most splendid city in the world is Hangzhou."

 

The Hangzhou International Conference Center on the bank of the Qiantang River (QU WEI)

Group of 20

G20 members include 19 individual countries—Argentina, Australia, Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, India, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Mexico, Russia, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, Turkey, the United Kingdom, the United States—and the EU.

Copyedited by Dominic James Madar

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