Photos by Peng Zhaozhi, edited by Li Fangfang

As a tradition passed down between mothers and daughters or mothers-in-law and daughters-in-law, Zhongning haozi noodles have been popular since the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) around Zhongning, a roughly two-hour drive from Yinchuan City, capital of northwest China's Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region.

Zhongning Haozi noodles – which were added to the list of Ningxia's intangible cultural heritage in 2006 – are named after a local wild plant haocao, known for its digestive properties.

Middle-aged Bai Mei learned to make haozi noodles when she was a child and pursues her passion as a hobby, not as a means to make a living like others who specialize in making the dish.

Technique is key. Mix the flour, haozi, salt, sesame oil and water with local yeast and knead the dough; then press the dough into a thin 1-meter-diameter disk; at last, fold it into several layers and cut into the noodles before placing them in boiling water. The noodles are usually served as a soup with tofu, day lily and other diced and stir-fried vegetables.

For Bai, what matters is not the process of making haozi but the joy it brings her family. "My mother was always telling my father and me to have the noodles while they are still hot. At that time, I didn't understand why she emphasized that a lot," she said. "When I had my own family, I realized that what makes haozi noodles delicious is the sense of fulfillment my family feels after the meal."