In the year 639, out of the City of　Changan (present-day Xian), capital of the Tang Dynasty　(618-907), several thousands of　people walked towards the west. Spectators could tell from the　numerous streamers and the fully armed guards that this was no　ordinary procession. It was, in　fact, a royal one. Inside the　magnificently-decorated sedan　chair, sat Tang's Princess Wen　Cheng. She was on her way to　Tibet to marry the Tibetan king　Songtsan Gambo. However, the　wedding did not take place until　two years later in 641--it had　taken the procession a full two　years to make the 3,000-kilometre　journey from Changan to Lhasa. It was a tough journey along a　road that had never been travelled, a road that was dominated by　rugged mountains, treacherous　marshes and, of course, the unpredictable weather on the　Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.

The marriage was a goodwill　gesture from the Tibetan king to　the Tang emperor in order to establish friendly ties between the　two neighbours. Princess Wen　Cheng brought Buddhist sutras, philosophical classics by Confucious, silk and other skills along　with her. But more important, the　princess and her procession carved　out a road that would serve as the　main gateway into Tibet for the　hundreds of years to come, as well as a channel of understanding　between the people of the two　ethnic groups.

In order to trace its history, a　crew of 10 members from China　Central Television (CCTV) set out　in May 1984 along the same road. But they covered much more than　3,000 kilometres. With detours　here and there, the crew members　travelled a total distance of　100,000 kilometres, about two-thirds of which were on horseback, since a considerable part of　this ancient road was unsuitable　for modern transportation vehicles. The purpose of the　expedition was not only to shoot a　TV documentary, A Journey　Along the Tangbo (Changan to　Tibet) Ancient Road, about the　scenic surroundings of the road, but to introduce TV viewers to the　history, the culture and the life of　people related to the road. "We aim to tell people elsewhere in the　country something about the　'mysterious' Qinghai-Tibet　Plateau and its people, so as to　promote mutual understanding　and eventually to consolidate the　unity between various ethnic　groups of the area," says Wang　Huaixin, a senior producer of the　documentary.

The crew went through the same　difficulties as the first travellers　did 1,300 years ago. They saw the　most beautiful landscape on the　plateau, yet they also experienced　the worst hardship there. Listening to their stories, one somehow　gets the feeling that they had gone　through an endemic wonderland, as　well as a Virgilian underworld, and, to quote one of the crew　members, "have died several　times."

Passing to the west of Zhaling　Lake, they encountered the home　island of many white-lipped deer, which have been given special　protection by the government as　one of China's rarest animals. But　here they met their biggest　challenge, as four crew members　set out in a raft to the island for　some close-up pictures. By the　time they got to the island, nearly an hour later, a terrible storm　suddenly came up and the　temperature dropped sharply, For　fear of freezing to death, they had　to paddle back. But that was easier　said than done. Up and down the　mountains of waves and braving　strong winds, it was a matter of life　or death for them. The raft could　have easily flipped over in the big　waves and they might have　drowned. They were completely at　the mercy of mother nature. When　this Cranian 'Open Boat' finally　made it safely to shore, after four　and a half hours, the crew　members looked back at the waves　wondering how they were still　alive.

"That was hardship, no doubt　about it," says Wang Xian, another producer. "But it was a　pleasure to introduce this ancient　road to our viewers, a road that has witnessed the official start and　the development of the traditional　friendship between Tibet and the　rest of the country. If you think of　it, we not only travelled the whole　length of it, but what we did really　has a great significance. As Princess Wen Chang of the Tang　Dynasty started a new chapter in　history, so did we. Our work has　promoted the friendship the road　has intended to be."

(This article appears on page 32, No. 20, 1987)