Cool Crid at 4People (MA LI)

Shapowei is a hidden gem nestling off the old harbor and the sheltered dock next to Xiamen University. Once strewn with decrepit buildings and disused factories, the heart of old Xiamen would have become a shadow of its former self had it not been rediscovered. Shapowei's heart is now pulsing vigorously, thanks to a new generation of enterprising individuals, including many of the more than 10,000 registered foreign residents in Xiamen.

Chen Zhizhen aka Crid is one of them. A native of Kulangsu Island, the phlegmatic 28-year-old started his first ventures on University Avenue. He opened Juicy, a small outlet selling a selection of homemade cereal breads, and 4People, a trendy coffee shop-cum-restaurant. Crid started a new trend appealing to the younger generation, and now Chinese and foreigners alike come in droves once the afternoon heat subsides.

The old repair stores and mom-and-pop shops are being refurbished to house eateries and boutiques instead. The landscape is slowly changing, and the rent has gone through the roof, Crid noted. Tattooed on his arm is the stylized word "change." "The only way to survive is to change, to adapt and to innovate," he said softly.

David Krings from North Rhine-Westphalia in Germany understands this rationale. This former product designer came to Xiamen in 2011. He soon left his company and, after a couple of years between jobs, opened Fat Fat Beer Horse, his first beer hangout, within hailing distance of Crid's 4People.

"I wanted to brew my own beer," the 36-year-old said. "You don't have much choice here apart from the usual big brands."

It took him a year to learn the ropes of craft beer making. The microbrewing movement took the world by surprise in the last decade and has become a global phenomenon. Krings was determined to bring his own brand of craft beer to Xiamen and, while looking to expand, found this old, disused ice factory transformed into an art district, complete with a skating rink, tiny boutiques, a couple of eateries and the ubiquitous tattoo parlor.

David Krings at Fat Fat Beer Horse (MA LI)

Located in a quiet corner, the new Fat Fat Beer Horse looks chilling and intimidating with its jungle of water pipes and bulging yellow pressure valves. Suddenly, a roar of laughter erupts from a table and the place becomes more welcoming. At the back of his pub, Krings has installed his brewing equipment. Grey vessels and casks lie on the concrete floor. He can brew up to 6,000 liters of the precious nectar a month.

"Most of our clients are local youth, the Shapowei crowd and some university students. They enjoy the variety of ales and fruit beers I brew, and they can grab a bite at the same time," said the blond Dionysian pointing at the small kitchen perched on the second floor.

There is a strong sense of community in Fat Fat Beer Horse. Krings's wife, Lin Tingting, is behind the bar while friends look after Elek, their newborn son.

"Fat Fat Beer Horse? It's for pangpang pijiu ma. David is fat, he was born in the year of the horse, and he makes beer. As simple as that," she explained with a smile.

Marcus (left) and Jan Teller greet their patrons at Shuailaowai(MA LI)

A matter of survival 

The laid-back, quiet ambience of Shapowei and the pandemonium of Zengcuo'an couldn't be further apart. Only a stone's throw away, Zengcuo'an used to be another sleepy fishing village when a population of bohemians from the nearby university called the place home at the turn of this century. A few coffee shops and art galleries opened. Then the Beijing Olympics in 2008 brought radical transformation. Zengcuo'an went from an obscure, quaint haven to a major tourist destination. Rents soon skyrocketed and the bohemians were pushed out. A multitude of outlets have rapidly emerged in this colorful maze of alleyways and everyone is vying for a few seconds of tourist attention. A matter of survival for most of them.

Jan Teller, a 32-year-old cool cat from London, and the ebullient Marcus, 43, a former project manager from Ottawa, Canada, have paired up and opened Shuailaowai (meaning handsome foreigners), a 1950s-themed waffle stall. Teller is at the helm of this tiny venture and he seems a little cramped for space.

"We opened two years ago on May 1 and it has been a constant struggle," he recalled. "We have to put in long hours and work far into the night to make ends meet."

He pointed at the surrounding shops: most of them will probably fold after a couple of months. Marcus is still reeling in amazement. "You can't imagine what we've been through," he said, adjusting his small red fedora. "People should have told us the craziness of it."

These two are a show of their own. Their sound system blasts rockabilly music and their antics rapidly draw the attention of tourists. They greet the arrivals with a hail of hellos and nihaos, and draw their lethal weapon, a trademark V sign. Some giggle and go on their way, others rise to the bait and order large portions of chocolate waffles topped with large dollops of ice cream.

"I could tell them it's a recipe from my grandma even if it's not," Marcus said jokingly. "Getting their attention is key."

Selfies play an important role in the Shuailaowai experience. Marcus is goofing around, entertaining a crowd of selfie stick-holding young women. The place buzzes with excitement and tourists start milling around. "I have gained a deeper understanding of the Chinese people and the challenges of doing business in China," the former manager humbly acknowledged.

A new frontier for some, Xiamen caters to all needs and aspirations. Its tourism sector is growing by the day and its reputation as an inclusive, environment-friendly and historically fascinating island city provides innumerable opportunities for those who rise to the challenge.

Copyedited by Sudeshna Sarkar

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