After a long hike around town, I like nothing more than to find comfort for my aching feet-resting in a hot solution of herbs and a mix that is slowly stiffening like warm, cozy oatmeal. I am sitting upright, trouser legs rolled up, feet in a wooden tub lined with plastic, while my shoulders, arms, hands and fingers are being quickly massaged with light, skillful touches. The small table beside the arm of my lounge couch holds a hot, steaming cup of Chinese Oolong Tea, which is alongside a covered, small plate of cherry tomatoes, three small packets of vanilla cream-filled wafer cookies, and a remote control for the TV a few feet away showing my favorite sports program.

Soon attendants will dry my feet, wrap one carefully, and commences work on the other with a knuckle-prodding procedure that includes first toes, edges around the entire foot, ball of the foot, arch, heel, and then the ankle-bone area. This process is initially done by what I term the "dry method," which is then entirely repeated with lotion and includes the topside of the foot the second time around. After my feet have been washed and dried again, they are wrapped and my legs and back are massaged by fingers and elbows, and then gently pounded with small, half-closed fists that make echo sounds.

In China, some massage spas resemble shrines like the Tahj Mahal: huge, quiet, luxurious and expensive. These facilities are fully equipped with whirlpools, steam baths, saunas, male and female attendants, and offer a complete line of accessories and amenities. Other, less flashy body treatment facilities, clearly identifiable near bustling work centers, are crammed to the gills with curtained massage tables, sweaty white-coated staffs, and long customer queues.

Most health establishments that offer body therapy will have options for Swedish, Thai or Oriental massages. My option is always the "Oriental," or Chinese massage, because the basic approach is the use of "acupressure" to vital nerve points on the body, some kneading of muscles, and you get to keep your clothes on. In addition to your preferred massage technique, you always have the choice of male or female attendant, depending on availability, choice of health drink or fresh plate of fruit slices. If you have doubts about whether the establishment offering body therapy is authentic, you can always obtain massage service at local hospitals. During my first year in China, I had regular weekly one-hour appointments at Changsha Central Hospital, where I was given whole-body massages. I wore all of my street clothes during these visits, and on one or two occasions stripped down to my winter long-johns. Initially, I brought a friend along to observe, thus allowing me to feel more at ease during these sessions. At this hospital, sometimes the doctor would oversee a team of three attendants who all worked on me simultaneously. I must say that having six hands tugging and kneading your every muscle fiber, instead of the usual two, is quite a mind-bending experience!

In the past, before coming to the East, I had encountered a few footbath attendants whose energetic vigor often sent me hobbling away like a cripple, or howling in extreme discomfort due to their massage methods. However, after discovering highly reputable massage franchises in China, my foot troubles have long since vanished. Of course, if you want your body contorted, stretched and shaped like a pretzel, you can find a therapist willing to inflict pain. On the other hand, realizing that body healing is an old "art," it is best to rely on qualified professionals. Upper-level body facilities even have professional pedicurists on hand to dispose of your overgrown toenails.

My experiences in the massage industry from hospitals, sports clubs, hotels, small businesses, large spas and private homes have been the basis of evaluations and conclusions about this service industry in China. The methodical sounds of pounding flesh in unison staccato beats, or steady marching rhythm, signals the end of each massage session. It is customary to receive a light massage of shoulders, arms, back and legs, even when you are paying for only a simple footbath. When you consider the fact that some service facilities offer more amenities than other spas, and are staffed by superior skilled professionals, bar none, compared to Western fees the price is always "right!"