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Expat's Eye
Print Edition> Expat's Eye
UPDATED: September 16, 2008 No.38 SEPT.18, 2008
Chasing the Sun
By JOHN BUTCHER
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On August 1, a full solar eclipse passed across part of China. I, like many others, made a journey to see it. This is my account of the experience, for better or worse.

Monday, July 28: At work after buying two tickets to Xi'an from a nearby travel agent.

I stroll into the office brandishing my tickets-one for me, the other for my girlfriend. Talking to one of my colleagues, I say something like, "We fly Thursday, and will take a bus into the eclipse zone on Friday. Of course, I doubt we'll see much. There will probably be clouds or a haze of pollution over the sun."

At this point, seeing the eclipse is a sideshow to a weekend away that will include my first glimpse of the Terracotta Warriors and a walk on Xi'an's ancient city wall.

Thursday morning, July 31: On a plane with my girlfriend Jingdi heading toward Xi'an, Shaanxi Province.

Holding some printed materials showing the line of the eclipse and the time it begins in various towns and cities along its route, I say to Jingdi, "We should head out to this place called Tongchuan tomorrow morning. I doubt we'll see the eclipse, but it'll make a nice day out. Will be good to get away from the tourist trail for a while."

Thursday afternoon, July 31: In a market in Xi'an's Muslim quarter, haggling over the price of a pair of binoculars.

"Is 50 okay…50 yuan ($7). Okay, okay, 60." I hand over 60 yuan ($8.5) to the stallholder. Jingdi criticizes me for paying too much. I peer through the binoculars down a line of market stalls, focusing on an old man's face, then a silk shirt hanging from a stall. My mind drifts a little and I imagine seeing a dark moon ringed by the fiery white glow of the sun as a full solar eclipse engulfs the world in darkness.

I'm suddenly awakened from my solar daydream by Jingdi asking me, "What did you buy those for?"

"Just…you know…looking at things far off from train windows…that sort of thing. Always wanted some binoculars." I don't mention my solar daydream.

Friday afternoon, August 1: On the main street of Tongchuan, Shaanxi Province.

It's a hot day; the sun is beating down. I occasionally glance up, squinting at its brightness.

We turn a corner into an open square, populated by just a few young skateboarders, and climb some steps into an open-air restaurant. The view of the sun is perfect. It sits in a sea of blue sky above some buildings on a hill at the edge of town. There isn't a cloud in sight…nothing can spoil the eclipse!

"This is perfect!" I say to Jingdi. "I can't believe how lucky we are."

She orders a plate of the local noodles and two bottles of juice and we wait.

Friday at 6:30 p.m., August 1: Still in Tongchuan.

A small sliver of the moon passes across the sun. I glance up periodically, ignoring the possibility of sun blindness, while warning Jingdi and another woman nearby not to look directly at the sun.

6:53 p.m.: Still in the square.

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