XMAS SEASON: China's markets have everything you need to deck the halls (JENNIFER JETT)

On the first day of Christmas, China gave to me

A bird that can say ni hao

A partridge in a pear tree has nothing on a caged bird that will greet me in Chinese as I pass by-although I worry that one day I'll try to engage the bird in conversation and find out it speaks better Chinese than I do.

On the second day of Christmas, China gave to me

Two lucky apples

China is understandably short on Christmas traditions, but there is one: Some people eat apples on Christmas Eve for health and good luck in the coming year. The practice stems from the fact that the Chinese for Christmas Eve, Ping'anye, contains the character for apple, ping.

On the third day of Christmas, China gave to me

Three plastic Santas

For my Christmas decorations last year, I went to Carrefour to stock up on colored lights and Santa hats that were too small for my head. If only I had known about Beijing's Tianyi Market, which is probably better supplied than the North Pole. Want a life-size Santa and eight reindeer for your nonexistent lawn? (Or maybe a Christmas giraffe?) Done.

On the fourth day of Christmas, China gave to me

Four shopping malls

In its typical pragmatic way, China has taken this major Western holiday and distilled it into its purest commercial form. The Christmas trees, Santa Clauses and shiny gift boxes in store windows all suggest one thing: shopping.

On the fifth day of Christmas, China gave to me

Five Peking ducks!

Who needs turkey or ham when you can feast on crispy, succulent roast duck? When I eventually leave China, I just might insist on continuing it as a holiday tradition. Turkey is too dry anyway.

On the sixth day of Christmas, China gave to me

Six yams a-roasting

Cranberry sauce is hard to come by, but other foods available in China evoke a holiday meal back home. A hot sweet potato or bag of chestnuts from a street vendor is the perfect snack on a chilly winter night.

On the seventh day of Christmas, China gave to me

Seven crowds a-shoving

Christmas is about togetherness, and you don't get much closer to people here than on the subway. My favorite part is when I find myself surrounded by fur-lined winter coats, spitting out tiny hairs. The subway is also a great spot to catch that other yearly ritual, the Christmas head cold.

On the eighth day of Christmas, China gave to me

Eight horns a-honking

It's not exactly silverbells, but all the hustle and bustle lends Chinese cities a certain holiday cheer--even if a chorus of car horns at four o'clock in the morning shatters peace on Earth and seriously erodes my goodwill toward men.

On the ninth day of Christmas, China gave to me

Nine cellphones ringing

It doesn't compare to the 600 million text messages sent on Spring Festival Eve this year, but cellphones rattle constantly with holiday greetings over Christmas as well-often between friends making plans for a big meal out on Christmas Eve.

On the 10th day of Christmas, China gave to me

Ten vendors shouting

In China, there is no excuse for Christmas shoppers stumped for gift ideas. From Hello Kitty thermos sets to Yao Ming bobbleheads, the markets have something for everyone-and if you're truly stuck, half a dozen people will be right there to guide you.

On the 11th day of Christmas, China gave to me

Eleven carols playing

It's no surprise that Starbucks started piping in Christmas music in November. But I didn't expect to hear the same music last year in a suburban shopping center, far from the downtown core where most foreigners congregate. I guess I wasn't the only person there whose music collection includes A Very Special Christmas 1989.

On the 12th day of Christmas, China gave to me

Twelve laoren laughing

Christmas is more popular among young urban Chinese than their parents or grandparents, but older people gathered around a mahjong game remind me of the lighthearted spirit and good company that make holidays special in every country.

All together now: On the 12th day of Christmas, China gave to me / Twelve laoren laughing / Eleven carols playing / Ten vendors shouting / Nine cellphones ringing / Eight horns a-honking / Seven crowds a-shoving / Six yams a-roasting / Five Peking ducks! / Four shopping malls / Three plastic Santas / Two lucky apples / And a bird that can say ni hao.