Issue 18
An Irreplaceable Place
The importance and beauty of Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve
By Jo Kromberg  ·  2015-09-30  ·   Source:

Kogelberg Nature Reserve bike trails (CAPENATURE.CO.ZA)

Almost every person in every country the world over who has ever watched an African nature show on TV is aware of Africa's most prodigious attractions--the lion, the leopard, the rhinoceros (or rhino), the elephant and the buffalo who make up The famous Big-5.

We find them in most of the safari destinations of southern Africa and they are beautiful to behold in the wild.

But Africa also holds far more secret, almost sacred treasures in its abundance of fauna and flora.

And on this very early morning flight to Cape Town I'm about to discover just that...

Cooling off in Kogelberg (CAPENATURE.CO.ZA)

The sun shines brightly on a lesser-spotted wonderful summery day as we are whisked from the airport to the magnificent Waterkloof Wine Estate just outside Somerset West, about half an hours' drive inland from the airport. The Estate comes into view, sitting proudly atop a mount, with views that stretch forever.

The Estate speaks of a contemporary and authentic design and architectural aesthetics rivalling anything Australia, America or France has to offer. Light flows through double volume glass revealing the spectacular surrounding mountains, travelling seamlessly down to the wide ocean.

We have been invited here to celebrate the unveiling of the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve Coin series by Tumi Tsehlo, Managing Director of the South African Mint.

 

In the company of many important and well-dressed guests, the formalities finally begin, and we are introduced to the wonders of the secret world of biospheres and the reasons the South African Mint considered this worthy enough to be featured on a new series of coins, in the process playing its part in the planet's biodiversity and sustainability. The launch of this first new coin series is part of UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere Programme, we are told.

Rustic barbecue at Kogelberg (CAPENATURE.CO.ZA)

Biosphere beauty

It is difficult to make a biosphere sound sexy. Even more so when academics who are passionate about the topic explain the importance of biospheres. But they ARE important.

For the next couple of hours we learn about the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, this highly significant and beautiful piece of our planet. The Reserve is not only one of our most beautiful biospheres, but is also the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom, the world's most diverse and abundant floral area. It is also home to the African Black Oystercatcher (Haematopus moquini), the African Penguin (Spheniscus demersus) and the Cape Clawless Otter among many other species.

"Currently based in more than 650 biosphere reserves in 120 countries, UNESCO's Man and the Biosphere Programme was created in 1971 as part of a greater consciousness of how humans interacted with nature over the last 50 years. The programme aims to promote interdisciplinary approaches to management, research and education in ecosystem conservation and sustainable use of natural resources," explains Tsehlo.

Paul Kluver vineyard (CLUVER.COM)

After hours of speeches, a hungry bunch of guests enjoy a bespoke lunch made from a variety of local produce from the biosphere reserve, including roast chicken and herb risotto and confit pork belly and croquettes among other delectable dishes, all individually paired to select wines from the Estate.

Finally at about 4 in the afternoon we pile into our vehicle and embark on the hour’s drive to our abode for the evening, the Oudebosch Eco Cabins, situated in the heart of the Kogelberg Nature Reserve. Its arguably one of the most spectacular and scenic drives in the world, with verdant mountains on the one side and the calm, deep blue Atlantic ocean on the other. The Reserve is considered by many to be the most beautiful of CapeNature's protected areas. Its exceptional diversity and quality of fynbos means it is also considered the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom. The reserve lies within the southern stretch of the rugged Hottentots Holland mountain range, and has remained isolated and remarkably unspoilt. Its high mountain peaks, steep ravines and valleys and several tributaries of the pristine Palmiet River create a sense of remote wilderness.

Kogelberg is situated some 90 km south-east of Cape Town, and comprises a core area of 18 000 ha and several smaller fragments. The reserve is sign-posted from the coastal road (R44), and a gravel road leads for 3 km through private property to the entrance. The coastal town of Kleinmond is about 8 km south-east of the reserve.

The pristine Oudebosch Eco Cabins are something to behold. Each of the five cabins sleeps four people and consists of two bedrooms, one bathroom, one en-suite, and a spacious kitchen, lounge and dining area.

The remoteness, views of the mountains and peace here, with only a slight breeze and birdsong interrupting the silence is quite breath-taking.

Waterkloof Wine Estate 'cellar in the sky' (WATERKLOOFWINES.CO.ZA)

Even though the design and structure of the cabins are based completely on eco-awareness and are self-catering and also very, very cost-effective (expect to pay about $50 per person per night) they are beautifully luxurious and tastefully decorated. For barely $1000 you can rent out the whole place which sleeps 20 people.

Everything is solar-powered here and there is no Wi-Fi but lots to do--hiking, swimming, exploring, cycling. And then of course you can just sit by the eco pool and absorb nature.

I fall into a peaceful, dreamless sleep after our lovely barbecue and a rare couple of hours of peace and quiet the next morning allow me to drink in the environment while the others go hiking. Then it's off to lunch at the prestigious and highly rated Paul Cluver Wine Estate in Elgin. They also offer a sustainable menu based on available seasonal produce and on offer are excellent fare such as West Coast mussels in a fennel cream and Karoo Lamb which I tuck into with relish.

We then pile back into the van for our last stop on this amazing tour.

We visit the community of Grabouw to have a look at the New Sun, Farm Fresh and Phoenix Green Nursery community projects. The site they use for the nursery used to be a rubbish dump which was gradually converted into the beautiful nursery it is today by dedicated community members. We all plant a tree to commemorate our visit and I hope to return one day to see my tree thriving. It is quite humbling to meet these amazing community leaders, who go by the names of Lady Diana, Anthony and Uncle Jack and who's passion for the project is palpable.

Finally its back to Cape Town to catch our return flight to Johannesburg, but the Kogelberg Biosphere, its location, its people and its importance is lodged with me forever..

Contact:

Waterfloof Wine Estate:

http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/

Kogelberg Nature Reserve contact information

Reserve office hours: 07h30--16h00

Reserve office phone number: +27 (0)28 271 5138

Emergency number: +27 (0)28 271 5138 (Answering machine will refer to officer on duty)

Accommodation and permit bookings Tel: +27 (0)21 483 0190

http://www.capenature.co.za/reserves/kogelberg-nature-reserve/

Getting there:

Fly from Johannesburg on any one of four low-cost carriers to Cape Town. The best way from there will be to hire a car.

From Cape Town, take the N2 north. Just before Sir Lowry's Pass, turn right on to Sir Lowry's Pass Road. At the T-junction in Gordon's Bay, turn left on to the R44, following the road along the coast, past Pringle Bay and Betty's Bay. Just before you reach Kleinmond you will see the sign for Kogelberg taking the dirt road to the left.

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