The sizzle of food frying in hot oil and the tantalizing aromas of tortillas packed with delicious ingredients, enticing passing foodies to indulge in authentic Mexican cuisine. This was the scene at the Beijing Taco Fest, launched in 2023 and held on April 20-21 this year.

Many donning a traditional Mexican sombrero, visitors of many nationalities savored tacos and immersed themselves in lively musical performances at the culinary fiesta.

The "invention" of the taco dates back to the 18th century. Historical records suggest that Mexican silver miners used folded tortillas as a practical way to hold and consume their food.

Over time, this humble beginning evolved into the diverse and beloved taco that is enjoyed worldwide today.

During the Beijing Taco Fest 2024, over 30 vendors offered a wide selection of more than 70 different types of taco. Many of the vendors operate restaurants in Beijing, while some had traveled from Shanghai to participate.

Beijing-based Moji Mexican Restaurant was one of them.

As Moji introduced, tacos are typically made with a corn or wheat tortillas and filled with ingredients such as beef, pork, chicken, seafood, beans, vegetables and cheese. The filling is further enhanced with toppings like salsa, guacamole, cilantro, onions and other condiments based on regional and personal preferences. Tacos can be prepared through different cooking methods such as roasting, slow cooking, grilling or braising, leading to a range of flavors and textures. While some tacos may have a tangy or spicy taste profile, the flavor can vary depending on the specific ingredients and seasonings used in the dish.

Though they have been popular for years already, tacos are not yet as widely embraced by the Chinese population as American fast-food favorites like hamburgers, sandwiches and hotdogs, which have all been present in China for decades. But the increasing quality and popularity of Mexican restaurants are helping to elevate the presence of tacos in the Chinese market. 

On the table

Moji Mexican Restaurant first opened its doors in Beijing seven years ago. And it considers the taco to be the soul of Mexican culture.

"At the event, we offered a variety of authentic tacos, including the taco de tripa, or the traditional tripe taco, and the taco campechano (a combination of beef, chorizo, potatoes and cheese all wrapped up in a soft taco shell)," Moji told Beijing Review.

According to Moji, the restaurant debuted several new dishes at the Beijing Taco Fest 2024, such as the abovementioned tacos as well as those made with spicy beef tendons.

"We had a great turnout, with hundreds of visitors each day. People reacted very positively to our dishes, and it was heartwarming to see how much they enjoyed the authentic Mexican flavors we brought to the festival," Moji said.

Over recent years, Moji has witnessed a clear evolution in the food preferences of Chinese consumers. Moji noted that there's been a growing interest in international cuisine, with people becoming more adventurous and open to trying new Mexican flavors and dishes.

"Being in the food and beverage business in Beijing is challenging but rewarding. Our brand, with four restaurants in Beijing, has been doing well this year," Moji said.

Another longstanding Mexican haunt in Beijing is Q MEX Bar & Grill, which has been serving customers in the city for 11 years and currently operates five outlets.

Alongside its authentic Mexican cuisine, Q MEX Bar & Grill offers patrons the opportunity to immerse themselves in Mexican culture through live music performances.

Chef and co-owner Marcus Medina has been introducing traditional Mexican flavors to the Chinese community, noting the appreciation for spice Chinese and Mexican people share. He draws parallels between the piquancy found in some Mexican dishes and the flavors characteristic of China's fiery Sichuan and Hunan cuisines, which he enjoys the most.

Growing presence

Taco Bell, a fast-food chain headquartered in the U.S., joined the festival once again this year. With a history of over 600 years, it offers Mexican-inspired dishes.

Taco Bell had previously left the Chinese market around two decades ago, only to make a comeback in 2016. Armed with a revamped menu, the chain reentered China by establishing its first restaurant in Shanghai. In 2020, it expanded its presence by opening another location in Beijing. As of late 2023, Taco Bell had successfully opened 100 outlets across a dozen Chinese cities.

On the menu, you will find offerings such as nachos, tacos, quesadillas and burritos, with some items adapted to cater to local palates. Some of the dishes have been developed exclusively for the Chinese market such as the rice bowl, seasoned bone-in chicken and taco pizza.

The Taco Bell franchise in China is owned by Yum China, China's largest restaurant company, which also oversees the operation of popular fast food chains KFC and Pizza Hut outlets in China.

According to Yum China, today's Chinese consumer wants the best the world has to offer, and it looks forward to further expand its yummy presence across the country.

In China, for China

As Mexican taco brands seek to better tailor their offerings to Chinese consumer preferences, there are Chinese restaurants introducing Chinese-style tacos.

IN&OUT, or Yi Zuo Yi Wang, a restaurant specializing in the cuisines of Yunnan Province, has used a local staple called erkuai, or rice cakes, to whip up an exclusive taco—starring lemongrass-roasted chicken.

Despite the geographical distance, the cuisines of Yunnan share similarities with Mexican dishes in terms of their sour and spicy flavors. Erkuai is made from locally grown rice that is steamed, pounded and hand-pressed. The erkuai pancakes have a unique texture, being both soft and chewy, which provides a complementary flavor when paired with tacos.

And Chinese food enthusiasts are ready to indulge. At the Beijing Taco Fest, an attendee surnamed Lin tried a taco for the very first time. According to Lin, her initial impression of tacos was reminiscent of the barbecue style from Zibo in Shandong Province. Zibo barbecue, that sees diners wrap meat and scallions from skewers in flatbreads similar to tortillas, went viral last year, with droves of domestic consumers flocking to the place for a bite—or two.

"But tacos taste different because of the sauces. While chewing on the tortilla, the combination of the fillings and the sauce creates in an amazing taste. And with all the vegetables in here, tacos are also a good option for people seeking a healthy diet," Lin told Beijing Review.

"Tacos know no borders. More people here in China may become taco fans as the classic Mexican combination meets localization," she said.

Copyedited by Elsbeth van Paridon

Comments to lixiaoyang@cicgamericas.com