China
A Wild Trek Through History
By Andrea Rafai  ·  2024-09-06  ·   Source: NO.36 SEPTEMBER 5, 2024
Tourists at the Panlongshan section of the Great Wall in Beijing on April 24 (ANDREA RAFAI)

Have you ever imagined what it would be like to climb the Great Wall of China? Everyone knows the Great Wall is long, but just how long is it? Stretching along approximately 21,196 km, its sheer scale is mind-boggling, especially considering that it was built without modern industry or technology. The fact that this architectural wonder still stands today, and is likely to continue to be there for generations to come, is a testament to human ingenuity.

There are numerous entry points to begin your journey, each offering a different level of challenge, much like a video game. Depending on where you start, the experience can range from a bustling tourist hotspot to a solitary trek through history. If your mental image of the Great Wall includes packed crowds, I will have to burst your bubble: Reality can be quite different. My friends and I opted for a more challenging hike—along the Panlongshan section of the wall. Panlongshan, situated in the village of Gubeikou in Beijing's Miyun District, offers a somewhat "wilder" experience.

The wall here has been left largely untouched, with narrow pathways and signs warning of landslides. At one point, the wall becomes unclimbable after the fourth or fifth watchtower due to a gap in the path right at the tower's entrance, forcing hikers to detour through a small forest. But not to worry, this isn't the kind of forest where wolves lurk—you're more likely to encounter lizards than anything else. The hike was full of surprises. Midway through this detour, you'll come across a sign marking the entrance to the wall's Taochunkou section in the northern part of Hebei Province. Among the historical landmarks is the Longwanggu Pass, constructed in 1383 under the direction of General Xu Da, who had played a big part in the founding of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Positioned between two mountains, the once-majestic defense tower has succumbed to centuries of wear and tear, with its grandeur long faded by erosion. The gate, originally measuring 2.5 meters high, 2.3 meters wide and 10.7 meters deep, now resembles a cave, with its northern side blocked by sand.

After navigating through the forest, we stumbled upon a small souvenir shop in the middle of nowhere, a charming spot that felt like something out of a fairy tale. Instead of a candy house and a wicked witch like Hansel and Gretel, we found a kind lady selling memorabilia, food, and drinks. Here, you can spot another entrance to the wall, but it's not well-marked, adding an extra layer of adventure and intrigue for those who enjoy a good challenge. We did our best but eventually had to retrace our steps to make it back before sundown, which in late April comes quickly, around 7 p.m. Despite its ruggedness, this section of the wall is well-preserved, though perhaps not ideal for families with small children. However, the area before you reach the wall is perfect for families, featuring an interactive playground modeled after a military camp.

Gubeikou itself is a small village with a population of around 7,000, but it has everything its residents need, including abundant farmland surrounding the wall.

The hospitality we experienced was on another level. We stayed with a lovely older couple who prepared fresh meals for us twice a day, no matter when we woke up or returned. Their home, while not a five-star hotel, felt like one, complete with a living room, cozy bedrooms and a bathroom attached to both rooms. The only downside was the reliance on taxis to get around, which are few and far between. All in all, our adventure was a five-to-seven-hour hike through nature, offering a perfect blend of outdoor activity and historical exploration.

Who doesn't need a bit of that from time to time? 

The author is a Hungarian student at East China Normal University in Shanghai

Copyedited by Elsbeth van Paridon

Comments to yanwei@cicgamericas.com

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